Mick Percy's Build Thread

Mick Percy's Build Thread

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Side window trims + Remote rear hood release

Posted by on in Exterior
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With the headliner and rear parcel shelf now installed the next things to get installed are the trims that fit around the side windows. The whole area has an extruded aluminium trim that sits in a rubber channel, this fits from the base of the A Pillar, along the roof, down the rear of the C pillar and back along the bottom of the aperture to the door opening.

The trim section helps to hold the roof lining in position and finishes the roof lining off. I had previously sent the aluminium trims out to be polished.  Normally these trim sections are plated with a bright finish similar to anodizing (but not the same), however I decided to polish them which gives a shinier finish. The trims were then waxed to prevent oxidation.

There are a few articles in the library about trim refinishing and from memory at least one Registry member has had their trim re-plated in the correct finish (the name of the process escapes me at present - maybe they will chime in!?). With my restoration not being concourse this gives me license to do things a little differently, which in some cases makes things easier, but in other cases does not :).

With the trims refinished, I also purchased a new length of rubber trim from Rudiger Huber (www.karmannghia.de) a great source for those hard to get parts. The rubber is sold in a single length long enough to do both sides of the car.

Originally the trim is nailed into position, the nail is simply driven through the trim and rubber into the steel surround (the carpets and several other trim pieces are held in position in a similar manner) I opted to replace the nails with a low profile stainless steel screw, partially as I did not have the correct nails, but also so that if for some reason I needed to remove the trim in the future, it would be easy to do so.

With the main trim in position I then fitted the front A pillar cover trim. I had also had this trim re-polished. The cover trim sits underneath the aperture trim and tucks under the front screen rubber, it covers the complete A pillar and gives the appearance that the A pillar is made of aluminium.

Next I fitted the B pillar in position. As with the rest of the brightwork I had these re-chromed. The rubber trim at the top needs to be trimmed to allow the B pillar to be fixed into position. At the bottom there is a small rubber trim piece that sits underneath the B pillar itself. The B Pillar is fixed with a single set screw at the top and a self tapping screw at the bottom. Unfortunately this is about as far as I could get with the side windows as I had to order the door and quarter window aperture seals.

Remote Boot Release

As the theme of the car is a mild custom, there are a few things that I've done here and there to 'improve' or customise the appearance. One of these is to remove the rear boot release. I did this to tidy up the rear panel, which I always considered to be a bit spoiled by the addition of the rear hood release. Other modifications include shaving the passenger door lock, welding up the sill (rocker) trim holes, welding up the badge mounting holes and panel beating the front badge protrusion to smooth it out.  I did at one stage consider removing the spot lights (same as on my old '69) but decided against it.

Originally I had considered fitting a solenoid type rear hood release but then decided to do something more in keeping with the car. I purchased a generic cable pull hood release kit and obtained a broken front hood release knob. The idea here was to use the longer cable but fit the correct style pull knob.

Changing the knobs over was relatively easy, and would also work for repairing a broken cable. I simply cut off the crimped part of the knob, re-drilled the end to accept the cable and then re-crimped it using a combination of vice top, cold chisel and hammer.

The release cable was mounted in the front of the rear seat base, the cable was then carefully threaded through to the back of the rear wing (you can just about poke it through the 'razor' line of the wing - there is a bulkhead separating the two areas).

From inside the wing space I then threaded the cable through into the bottom of the air dam area where I drilled a hole in the bulkhead adjacent to the oil filler. The cable then exits into the engine bay area where it loops around to go back through the bulkhead to meet up with the hood catch.

The hood catch was drilled to allow the cable to be fitted to it by the use of a cable clamp (supplied as part of the hood release kit), and fitted with a return spring so that the catch returns to the correct position.

All in all it only took a few hours to get it up and running and works perfectly - including the retaining hook which prevents the hood from simply flying open. It's completely unobtrusive too - unless you are sitting in the engine bay, the cable is completely hidden from view.

With the rear hood release fitted I can actually close the rear hood, which means that apart from the rear quarter windows the car is now weather proof.


  • Michael Percy
    Michael Percy Thursday, 15 September 2011

    Ahh yes - that's it. I could remember the discussions about it but could not remember what it was called - I should have guessed that it was Paul who researched it. I'm guessing that he would have some info on his blog if anyone is interested - http://paulst34project.blogspot.com/

  • Michael Percy
    Michael Percy Thursday, 15 September 2011

    The plating process you're thinking of is known as "brite-dip anodizing," at least here in the US. Paul Colbert had his car's aluminum trim straightened and reanodized and it looks just like OEM original.

    The cable release is a thoughtful modification. Nicely done!

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